Caring for a Credible Pool (Attendant)

This Guide is for our Poolside Tech (The Attendant) Systems

Poolside Attendant System

Caring for Your
Credible Pool

Your complete owner's guide — bookmark this page and you'll find almost every answer here.

Step 1 — Download the Poolside Attendant app:

Download on theApp Store

Get it onGoogle Play

New pool heads-up: We'll perform "construction cleans" once the water is clear, but fine construction dust will keep entering the water until landscaping is finished. Until then, your main focus is: water flow at the returns, water level, chemistry, and clearing debris from the skimmer basket. Think of it like a new puppy — it takes some attention up front!

Jump to section

1 Chlorine & flow 2 Filter types 3 Backwash procedure 4 Water chemistry 5 Salt water basics 6 Heating your pool 7 Deep filter clean

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Chlorine

Sanitizes your water and keeps it clear. Test your water every week — this is non-negotiable.

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Flow

Watch for good water movement at the returns. Low flow means it's time to backwash or clean your filter.

Your filter type

AquaStar Pipeline Filter (cartridge)

DE Filter with band clamp

Cartridge filter (AquaStar Pipeline)

No tools needed. Remove and clean the cartridge when flow decreases — or replace it when worn out. We provide an extra cartridge for new pools. If you have this filter, skip the DE section below and go straight to balancing the water.

How to open it

Turn off the pump

Always make sure the pump is off before opening the filter.

Open the air relief valve

Turn the small valve on top to release any built-up pressure. Wait until water stops spitting out.

Lift up on the orange handles and twist

Grab both orange handles, lift up, and rotate the lid — it will catch once for safety, then lift off completely.

Lift the cartridge straight up

Pull the cartridge up and out of the center core — the cartridge itself then slides off the inner core. Spray clean with a hose or swap in your spare. See the AquaStar instructions for full detail.

Reassemble and restart

Drop the cartridge back in, twist the lid back on, close the air relief valve, and turn the pump back on.

DE filter (Diatomaceous Earth)

We install and recommend DE filters — they filter best and are easy to maintain. A single spring-loaded bolt holds the band clamp. Most routine cleaning is done via backwash. We install filters oversized for your pool so you clean them less often.

Backwash procedure

Valve positions — turn in one direction to cycle through

Watch the sight glass — stop when water clears

Quick clean (short backwash)

1 · Backwash

→

2 · Rinse

→

3 · Filter

Stop when water turns white (~1 min). Do NOT add DE powder.

Turn off pump — open backwash valve (if applicable)

Spin valve in the same direction to the Backwash position.

Turn on pump — stop when water turns white

Watch the sight glass or backwash hose. Takes less than 1 minute. Do not add more DE powder after a short backwash.

Turn off pump — spin to Rinse

Turn pump on and rinse for ~20 seconds.

Spin to Filter — turn pump on

Pressure should drop and flow should increase. Check the returns for good movement. Your heater and chlorinator should now be working — always verify.

Full clean (full backwash)

1 · Backwash

→

2 · Rinse

→

3 · Filter

Stop when clear (~5 min). Add DE powder after.

Same steps as above but run until the water runs clear (~5 minutes). Once back in Filter mode, add DE powder through the skimmer — use approximately half the amount listed on the filter sticker. Too much DE can clog and damage the grid.

Important: A full backwash does NOT remove all DE. A complete disassemble is needed to fully clean (see Section 7).

Recirculate tip: The Recirculate valve position bypasses the filter — great for adding chemicals through the skimmer to distribute evenly. Always return to Filter mode and run for a couple of hours to fully circulate.

Weekly water chemistry

Test weekly

Free chlorine

1–3 ppm

Test weekly

7.4–7.6

Test weekly

Alkalinity

80–120 ppm

Test monthly

Calcium hardness

200–400 ppm

If using salt

Salt level

2700–3600 ppm

Optional booster

Borates

30–50 ppm

Test strips cover 90% of what you need. We also offer free professional water testing — bring in a sample anytime. Keep good chemistry records for warranty purposes.

We highly recommend adding Borates (e.g. ProTeam Supreme)

Borates stabilize pH, naturally prevent algae, and reduce your need for other chemicals. Like salt, once you reach the right level it only decreases through water loss — easy to maintain long-term.

Weekly shock: Not always required but never hurts. Shock helps oxidize contaminants and keep water clear. Use chlorine shock, non-chlorine shock, or the super-chlorinate function on your chlorine generator.

Salt water basics

A salt water pool is still a chlorine pool — the chlorine is just generated from pool salt in the water rather than added manually. The water tends to be softer, and it's less expensive and easier overall. Salt systems typically pay for themselves within the first couple of seasons.

For your salt system to work, you need:

Proper salt level in range (2700–3600 ppm — always check your specific equipment)
Proper water flow through the system at all times
A properly sized and functioning generator/cell

Never over-salt. If salt is too high it can damage equipment — and the only fix is draining and refilling with fresh water. Always estimate lower when adding salt. You can add more; you can't take it back.

Heating your pool

The most common reason a heater won't fire is low water flow — not a broken heater. Pool heaters require adequate water moving through the system to turn on.

Look at or feel the water at your return jets — you should see and feel active movement.
If flow looks weak, backwash your filter first (see Section 3).
Use the Recirculate valve to bypass the filter and test whether clogging is restricting flow.
If flow looks strong and the heater still won't run, call or text us before assuming equipment failure.

Deep filter clean (1–2× per season)

Unless you have a major issue or very dirty pool, you'll only need to fully disassemble the filter once or twice a season. We can also perform this service for you.

Cartridge filter (AquaStar Pipeline)

Open air relief valve to release pressure, then open the drain plug.

Lift up on the orange handles and twist off the top — it will catch once for safety.

Lift straight up to remove the cartridge from the center core.

Spray with a hose or gentle pressure washer until clean.

Replace the cartridge and lubricate all O-rings before reassembling.

Download full AquaStar Pipeline Filter instructions (PDF) ↗

DE filter (Hayward / Pentair vertical grid)

Vertical grid DE filter — lift straight up with a slight twist to remove

Start with a thorough backwash to remove as much DE as possible.

Loosen the bolt and remove the clamp with the proper wrench or socket.

Lift straight up on the sides of the top manifold with a slight twisting motion. Two people may be needed.

Do NOT take the grid assembly apart. Spray grids gently with a hose, getting fully in between on both sides.

Degrease with a filter degreaser — we recommend Zep Fast 505.

For calcium scale: soak grids in a 20% muriatic acid solution (5:1 water to acid) in a large clean trash can for several hours, then rinse thoroughly.

Inspect all grids for tears, rips, or cracks in the manifold. Replace damaged grids.

Replace grids, lubricate the O-ring with silicone spray, and reassemble. Recoat with the recommended DE amount from the filter sticker.

DE powder appearing in your pool water means the filter grids likely need replacing. Also replace if pressure stays high even after a full clean.

Still have questions?

We're always available — call, text, or book an in-person tutorial. We stay as a "Maintainer" in your Attendant app so we can assist remotely too.

Call / text (412) 254-4344 Book an Appointment

Caring for a Credible Pool (Attendant)

This Guide is for our Poolside Tech (The Attendant) Systems