Caring for a Credible Pool (Attendant)

Credible Pools Year Round Pool

Please note the guide here is for our Poolside Tech (The Attendant) Systems

You will first need to download and install the Poolside Attendant app from either the Apple App Store or the Google Play Store onto your mobile or tablet device. When we are finished configuring your pool we will transfer ownership to you and remain as a “Maintainer” so we can assist you remotely.

We will provide “construction cleans” once the water is clear to remove large debris and rocks but it will take quite some time to get the pool perfect and filter out fine construction dust. Construction dirt will always be entering the water until final landscaping is finished. This will also be your time to start learning how to care for your new pool. Our goal is to make it as easy as possible, but this is still a puppy in your backyard. Initially, maintenance involves watching the water flow at the returns, maintaining the water level, chemistry, and cleaning major debris out of the skimmer basket.



    A Pool is Still Work!


    The purpose of this online manual is for our new pool customers to begin learning general concepts to make caring for your pool as easy as possible. People often want an in person tutorial which we are happy to do, but if you have never owned a pool, it can be overwhelming.
    We of course are always available for questions but PLEASE take the time to read through this Credible Pool owner’s manual, bookmark this page, and you will find almost all your questions answered! This information also applies to a new system/filter/salt generator we may have installed for you.

        Chlorinate and Backwash!

        These 2 things solve 90% of your issues!

        Caring for your pool the way we teach is the easiest way to maintain an in-ground pool.

        1. Chlorine: (from a Salt System/Tablets/Shock) sanitizes your water and keeps it clear. see about Salt Water below
        2. Backwash (or Disassemble & Clean): Keeping your filter clean allows water to flow. Over time as a filter does its job it gets clogged up (and especially from new construction or when you first open your pool for the season). A clogged filter leads to high pressure & low water flow, and then heaters and salt generators stop working.

        We install and recommend Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Filters because they filter 5 TIMES BETTER than Cartridge Filters and are easier to clean and cheaper to maintain. To clean, you just start and stop the pump and spin the valve (always in the same direction)!


        1. Turn OFF Pump and OPEN Backwash Valve (if applicable)
        2. Spin Valve in Same Direction to BACKWASH
        3. Turn ON Pump and run until you don’t see dirty water (STOP when it turns white) ~less than a minute
        4. Turn OFF Pump
        5. Spin Valve in Same Direction to RINSE
        6. Turn ON Pump and run until you don’t see dirty water ~less than a minute
        7. REPEAT another BACKWASH & RINSE cycle (always turn OFF pump when adjusting valve)
        8. Spin Valve in Same Direction to FILTER
        9. Turn ON Pump and pressure should decrease and water flow increase
        10. That’s It! If you see good water flow at the pool, your heater and chlorinator should be working, but always check your equipment.

        Note: You can leave this valve open for Backwash, Rinse & Waste. We put a valve here because a Multiport (Spin Valve) can eventually leak so having a valve you can close off can add years until you have to replace your Multiport.


        Exactly the same as a Short Backwash except you let it Backwash & Rinse for 3-5 MINUTES to remove all the dirt ANDthe White Powder (the Diatomaceous Earth aka DE). You then have to RECOAT the Filter with DE. We have found it is best to replace about **HALF of what is recommended on the filter sticker when adding back DE powderafter a full backwash. Too much DE can clog and limit the flow and damage the grid!

        **NOTE: We recommend HALF because a FULL Backwash does NOT remove all the DE powder from the filter. You can ONLY do that with a full disassemble!


        Unless you have a major issue or a very dirty pool (after new construction or winter), you should only have to take apart the filter a couple times per season. Remove the clamp and pull out the entire filter, clean, degrease, and reassemble. Recoat the grid with the recommended amount of DE on the filter sticker. We can also perform this service for you or learn how to here.

        Balance the Water Weekly!

        Proper Chemistry is key!

        Inexpensive test strips will tell you 90% of what you need to know. We can further test your water for free. Focus on keeping chlorine and alkalinity within proper range, and adjust pH from there. It is important to keep good chemistry records for warranty purposes and/or have your water professionally tested at least every couple weeks.

        Chlorine – Apply Liberally!

        A Shock Never Hurts

        Shocking increases the sanitizer level temporarily to oxidize and kill algae or bacteria and clear the water (OR you can use the Super-chlorinate function on your salt system). You can do this weekly (works best in the evening) or whenever you have lots of swimming or a dirty event (bad rain, pool contaminants, etc). Typically, shock is a high level of some form of chlorine, but can also be a non-chlorine shock.

        TIP: Utilizing the RECIRCULATE function on the valve is a great way to add chemicals to the skimmer and evenly distribute into the pool without going thru the filter. Just remember to put it back to FILTER once dispersed and run for a couple hours to fully circulate.

        About Salt Water

        It’s still Chlorine!

        As mentioned above, a Salt Water Pool is still a chlorine pool, but the chlorine is generated from Pool Salt in the water. Your water tends to be softer and it is less expensive and easier overall than buying and handling chlorine. Salt systems typically pay for themselves in the first couple seasons. We highly recommend them, but for them to work, you need:

        • Proper Salt Level (2700-3400 ppm)
        • Proper Flow (Backwash as explained above!)
        • A properly sized and functioning Generator/Cell

        Salt levels are typically indicated on your equipment. The salt level can also be tested with strips (or with a professional meter) to make sure the system is accurate. ALWAYS ESTIMATE LOWER when adding salt.

        If your salt is too high, you can damage equipment and the only way to bring it down is to drain water and replace it with fresh water to dilute!

        Heating the Pool

        You Need Water Flow

        Quite often the reason a heater will not heat is poor water flow. Enough water has to be moving through the system (just look at or feel the water at the returns) or pool heaters will not turn on and heat. This does not mean your heater is broken.

        TIP: Utilizing the RECIRCULATE function on the valve is a quick way to bypass the filter to determine if the problem is a dirty filter not allowing enough water flow for the heater to work.

        Stripping and DEEP Cleaning your Filter

        We can provide this service or DIY

        Every filter needs disassembled and stripped and cleaned eventually. Unlike a cartridge filter which you could be doing weekly, a DE filter should typically only need this once or twice each season. This procedure is for a typical Hayward Vertical Grid filter:

        • Start with a thorough backwash to remove as much DE as possible (Backwash as explained above!)
        • With the proper wrench or socket, loosen the bolt and remove the clamp
        • Lift straight up on sides of top manifold, with a slight twisting motion, to free the grids from the standpipe. Two people may be needed, to lift the grid assembly out
        • Do not take the grid assembly apart, but spray grids GENTLY with a hose fully in-between to completely clean DE powder on both sides
        • Spray or soak the grids to remove oils and grease using a degreasing product for filters (we recommend Zep Fast 505)
        • If you have mineral deposits (typically calcium scale) soak the grid assembly in a 20% solution of Water and Muriatic Acid (5:1 ratio) in a large (clean) trash can for several hours, and then hose off thoroughly
        • INSPECT grids for tears or rips in the fabric or cracks in the manifold
        • Replace grids carefully back into tank, applying silicone spray or lubricant to the O-ring

        Replace DE grids when they begin to tear and fray, or if filter pressure remains high even after cleaning with DE filter cleaner. Of course, DE powder in the pool is another sign that you need to replace the filter grids.